Traditional Costumes
Altrank
Origins of the Figure
The figure of Altfrank represents a man of noble disposition, a nobleman, so to speak, at the time of the late Baroque. The costume has its origins in baroque bourgeois dress. This in turn goes back to military uniforms of the early 17th century.
First Half of the 17th Century - From Soldier’s Coat to Uniform Coat
Towards the end of the 16th century and especially after the Thirty Years’ War it was increasingly the French court that set the agenda in fashion. The standing armies now demanded uniform clothing. And so the soldier’s coat evolved into the uniform coat which was initially only worn by common soldiers. ‘Eventually, however, officers and the king as commander-in-chief also had to wear uniform coats. Thus they became reputable at court and were adopted by men’s fashion.’ (Source: Erika Thiel. Geschichte der Kostüms. Leipzig 2010, 230.)
Second Half of the 17th Century - From the Uniform Coat to the Justaucorps
However, the cut of the garment also changed. The coat was given a waist and became a so-called justaucorps (a coat that fits closely to the body). A waistcoat was now worn under the justaucorps. This replaced the doublet and was initially usually made of the same material and cut as the justaucorps. It was not until the 18th century that the waistcoat took on its present form.
End of the 17th Century - Knee Breeches, Stockings, Buckled Shoes, Tricorns
The wide trousers that had prevailed until then were replaced by the breeches (culotte) from the eighties of the 17th century. Since these disappeared under the coat they no longer had much modish significance. The stocking was now pushed up above the knee. From then on it was the centre of attention together with the shoe. Higher heels and longer toe caps became established and, from the seventies onwards, buckles. The allonge wig (a large long curly wig) became more important. After the death of Louis XIV, however, it soon became flatter again so that towards the end of the 17th century the tricorn became established.
First Half of the 18th Century - Attributes of the Altfank become established
In the first half of the 18th century the suit as we see it in the Altfrank essentially emerged. It became even finer and more graceful but had less ornamentation which also had to do with the decline of the aristocracy. The sleeves became tighter and the waistcoat lighter. Around the neck the nobleman wore a lace jabot and the sleeves were fitted with lace cuffs. The breeches were now pulled over the stockings (from about 1730) and closed with a knee band below the knee. The heels of the shoes became lower again, the allonge wig had finally had its day and the hair was tied at the nape of the neck with a ribbon.
Second Half of the 18th Century - From Justaucorps to Tailcoat
In the second half of the 18th century, under the influence of English fashion, the justeaucorps finally changed to the tailcoat.
‘Altfränkisch’ as a synonym for old-fashioned
But as change progressed even this clothing was no longer in keeping with the times. Pigtailed pedants who clung to the traditional were called ‘altväterisch’ or ‘altfränkisch’. ‘Altfränkisch’ (actually after the manner of the Franconian ancestors) is a stronger expression for ‘altväterisch’ which means old-fashioned or outmoded or backward. And this is presumably how the costume came about, the caricature, as it were, of a backward noble citizen.
Occurrence
Nowadays the Altfrank is not only found at the Basel Fasnacht. It also exists, for example, as the ‘Altfrankspritzer’ at the ‘Imster Schemenlaufen’ in the Austrian Tyrol. And also at the ‘Vogel Gryff’, the Kleinbasel’s special day, three drummers dressed as Altfrank accompany the procession.
Costume
The costume consists of a tailcoat of velvet or cloth with brass buttons. Underneath the Altfrank wears a gilet. The breeches (also made of velvet) cover the usually white socks below the knee. Other features are the lace jabot and buckled shoes with heels. The mask has a white wig with curls and plait. On top of this sits a tricorn with cockade and plume of feathers. The Alfrank is a distinguished figure with a sometimes slightly featherbrained expression.
